For weeks shoeless men dressed in black dhotis have flooded Kerala’s railway stations. In addition to their attire, strands of marigolds tied to open train windows, chants echoing from neighboring compartments, and the sheer number of people makes them a conspicuous presence. These men are pilgrims, traveling to the Sri Ayappan forest temple at Sabarimala, around 50 kilometers east of Kottayam. According to my guidebook, this is the second largest pilgrimage in the world, one that culminates in mid-January during the festival of Makara Sankranti. However, for those who either cannot or choose not to participate (for instance, there is a centuries-old ban on women of menstrual age), there are alternative festivals to celebrate the deity Ayappan.
John, Lindsey, and I attended one such festival sponsored by the members of the Dalit Community where I tutor. Donning our traditional Kerala attire, the three of us joined my friends in a procession down the streets of Aluva, finishing at a shrine they had erected for the occasion. A group of men led the way with drums and dancing, the women followed carrying their decorative umbrellas and candles. John, Lindsey, and I (after losing our umbrella privileges . . . methinks due to inadequate handling) simply walked alongside, enjoying the energy of the evening.
For pictures, visit www.sudieniesen.com
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